This stunning Voutilainen 28TI is a testament to Kari Voutilainen's thoughtful approach to watchmaking, bringing to fore something that is usually hidden; a desire which we'd like to believe all too often preoccupies the mind of Voutilainen collectors. This special timepiece is one of only 8 28TIs ever produced in titanium, and was manufactured entirely at the  workshop in Môtiers, near Geneva. In total, 26 watches were produced, 10 in tantalum, 8 in platinum and 8, as seen in this example, in titanium.

Based on the original series, the 28TI - short for “titanium inverse” - flips the movement, inverting the calibre to show the escapement and large balance wheel on front. The 28TI has a very similar construction to the standard cal. 28, though reworked for both aesthetic and functional purposes - with additional gearing allowing for the hands of the 28TI to travel clockwise around the dial, and for hand-setting through the winding crown. The open dial displays design cues and finishing which are typical of Kari’s watches, but with an unconventional arrangement of the indications.

The hours and minutes are displayed on the front of the watch, with Breguet-style hands and blued-steel rings to enhance legibility. On the left corner, Kari's oversized balance wheel is revealed, with two blued escape wheels placed discretely beneath. Turning the watch over, the caseback shows both the style and exceptional level of finishing usually concealed beneath the dial of the Vingt-8. Open-worked bridges for the seconds and power reserve indications complete the reverse side of the 28TI, adding a hidden complicated element. This skilled adaptation creates an overall sense of balance and uniformity with the dial side.

Through the combination of a unique balance- spring system, with a typical Phillips overcoil and a Grossmann interior curve, and the signature direct impulse escapement with two large escapement wheels, a high degree of engineering ingenuity is accomplished. One of the hallmarks of Voutilainen as a manufacture is their superlative hand-finishing; with expert anglage and a mixture of polished, brushed and frosted surfaces. The watch has a 50-hour power reserve.

This 28TI piece comes as a full-set, with its original box and papers. The watch comes on our grey nubuck strap, and its original Voutilainen buckle.

A Collected Man is the watches. Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look